Second anchor

Sounds like the Derecho that hit the Exumas on jan 6. We were between the majors and got about 70kts for two hours. Numerous boats dragged and three washed ashore. Waderick was hit bad too and supposedly clocked 90 Kts. same in gtown

In this case had we set a Bahamian moor it would have been more of a hassle than anything else as the down wind anchor would have done nothing

If a cut or creek is too narrow to swing with the tides then I pick another spot. We spend weeks in th Exumas every year and I ve never had an issue swinging around (70')

Not much current in that small bay on SW Allen and good Sandy bottom, plus protection from SW. So a decent Danforth will hold well, even two boats.

JimmyL, in theory you d set up the first anchor and pay out extra scope to fall back to where you want to set the second anchor. Then you drop the second anchor, shorten the scope on the first one till the boat sits in the middle. You need to leave enough slack on the second one so the rode, especially if using line, can't catch the running gear or a stabilizer fin.

Problem with this is thst very few boats are rigged with two rollers and windlass so while it s a fairly easy process on small boats with lighter anchors, in the real world, you re not going to manually deploy a 100+lbs anchor with chain.

Also when using all chain rode, the drag of the chain really helps when the current switches or if the wind shifts. It prevents the boat from drifting to far off to the side, unless the wind is really howling.

All you would need is one anchor to drag and fowl the other rode/anchor. Then no holding power.

As a few have commented, the single main anchor (installed anchor) is usually the storm anchor.
Think we all have agreed there in no need for lunch hooks.
Backup anchors should be at the ready to deploy if needed, not hinder an already set hook.

Were 58' 7 fat, don't like crowds (another anchored boat within miles), have more scope than needed, sleep well.
Fort Jefferson reinforced that attitude last year and it's folly's of experts dragging all over the place every evening around 1800.
lesson #2; always anchor upwind of the experts.

They're pretty light for their size, I call them the floating anchor because they will float if trying to let them out with a lot of current. I NEVER use them as a main anchor but for a backup anchor they are great. They store easily in the box and can be assembled in 2 minutes for use. Make sure to have chain for them, and buy an over sized one.

I also want the biggest real anchor that will fit the windlass and pulpit as my primary anchor. I like 300' of chain and then 300' of rope behind it. It's REALLY hard to cut chain out at sea, and in an emergency if I need to ditch it, can always cut the rope off and still have enough rope to throw a backup anchor with short chain and be somewhat secure or in really deep water, you have a chance of still anchoring with 600' total. Plus the rope gives the chain something soft to lay on.

Actually, That is a requirement (per 3 different surveyors up here) to have even just a short length of nylon to cut in case of emergency fast get a ways.

Yeah well I like to have a really long piece of nylon just in case!!!!!!!!!! Also, you can always let out just to the nylon if you have the swinging room and not have to deal with a bridle.

They do bend the flukes also if you put a big load on them. Fortress does replace the flukes and shanks for free but have to ship to them. I've had both bend on various ones over the years. Luckily Fortress is about 15 minutes away from my house.

ALSO, you can buy a metal ring/clip to clip on a poly ball that will go over an anchor rode and you drive foward on it and the polyball will work it's way aft and it will lift the anchor to the surface, they're also great to have in case of an emergency and don't have to pull an anchor up from the bottom. They work great on rope. I haven't tried them with chain but have heard they work with chain also.

Fortress have tremendous holding power in sand and mud but they often don't reset on their own making them a poor choice in tidal creeks.

Floating is a bit of an exaggeration, unless maybe used with no chain but yes they can be a little harder to set in strong current and high winds, or by folks who back down too hard while dropping the hook. In current or wind, slowing down the drift with the engines is always a good idea as many anchors no matter what size or design will skip on the bottom while you deploy the rode

I am not aware of any requirement to have a piece of line between the end of the chain and an eye in the anchor locker, who requires it? That said, it s just a good common sense precaution which i woulnt be without. Just make sure the line reaches the deck so you cut it quickly without having to go down in the locker.

I used to call it a flying or sailing anchor. Without a chain heavy enough to send it down quickly, in a current the flukes would sometimes fly and not make the bottom well.

It's been popping up on a few used boat surveys recommendation list up here (Jax).

I do luv the idea also.

It's an eye opener for a boater to realize a need to cut loose his anchor may happen.
When that emergency happens, he would not be able to do it.

Of course a BAK* is the next requirement.


* Big Asp Knife

The rope also acts as sort of a shock absorber when you hit the end of the chain, your not putting a huge shock on the bulkhead if the chain freewheels or whatever.

I have seen Fortress float in the current with the typical 6' of chain most SF builders put behind them.....

Or the windlass will not out an ever bigger shock when it reaches the end of the chain,,, the line will slip on the capstan.

I ve never understood why so many big sportfish only have a n FX, 6' of chain and line... Plain stupid. Like a couple hundred pound of chain is going to make a difference. Good ground tackle is a safety item. That should be a mandatory item on survey