Splitting 220v for washer dryer install

That is the first time I have ever heard this. Do you have any actual evidence of this?

The table below does not seem to draw any distinction of where its installed.

I'm missing your point, or my comment was misunderstood.
Let me try my line again;
Landside and marine electrical are two different worlds.
Landside and marine share wires that may be the same color, but some of these wires are installed differently.

I don't really follow your point, linking of the earth and neutral conductors is a well known and accepted practice in many applications.

Not on a boat tied to a dock.



You can see that on shore power, green and white are separate. Only when the xfer switch is enabled for local gen-set operation are green and white tied. No where else on the ship should green and white join.

I can only tell you what I have seen myself on ships and yachts, that drawing is very clear and concise. Is it an original Hatteras one?

From my ABYC E-11 manual dated July 2006. Not much has changed since.

I wrote to a Marine Electrician and asked him about this as I am confused myself.

This is what I got back:

The world does not revolve around the non regulatory preferences of ABYC. And it is very common to ground the neutral at a generator or isolation transformer. The example provided by you does not apply to most boats large enough to fit a washer and dryer.

Look at the Charles isolation transformer for an example: http://www.charlesindustries.com/marine_manual/ibt100_pr4.pdf

Here is a description of grounding and neutrals and the why it's done and how: http://tinyurl.com/qxlzpcx


What a lot of people do not realise is that many (most?) American 220V appliances require a neutral in order to supply 120V for components such as clocks and lights or timers.

One of the reasons small boat wiring is so screwed up is because "captains' and amateur engineers read stuff on boating forums and think it is always right.

That said it is often good for our business to straighten the amateurs work out.

Regardless of what you guys are argueing about. The OP currently has 1 220volt set of wires and outlet. He wants to run 220 volts for the dryer, and 110 volts for the washing machine. You can have either/or from 1 set of wires but not both. He's going to have to run another set of wires for the washing machine (110 volts).

For a minute here I thought I was watching my two 110 lbs male American Bulldogs engaged in their routine pis... contest fighting to see who would have the last splash on their favorite plan tree.

Seriously, and back to the original question.

Indeed since you need both 110 and 220 you will need to run a new set of wire for the washer.

I was told by a master electrician that there is NO electrical code for boats. Like you said there are just recommendations by ABYC. Practices differ between Europe and the USA. However it is common practice to bond the neutral and the ground anywhere there is a new "original" source of electricity. They are considered to be the same at that point. Some examples would be a shore transformer, isolation transformer, generator, inverter and service entrance panel of a building. The 120V timers and such are allowed to run on the earth ground of a 240V circuit in existing construction. They were considered minimal risks at the time. Not so in new construction.

Bottom line is safety first.

Yes, Bottom line is safety first.

If you run things on the earth ground on a yacht, what does that do for electrolysis?

Since we know the following : All boats should have a galvanic isolator or isolation transformer to protect against electrolysis.

I am assuming your question is about how the 120V timer on a 240V dryer would work since it uses earth ground instead of the neutral. The galvanic isolator only isolates DC current not AC so it would still pass AC. However a pedestal based GFI circuit breaker might not be happy with that dryer at all.

The Sunseeker I manage and run has a GFI breaker for the whole boat. I highly doubt it would be very happy either with the dryer.

We've been installing ELCI shore inlet breakers on newbuilds and refits for several years now and haven't had any reported issues with nuisance tripping from onboard electric motors including dryers and AC ompressors. The ELCI's have a 30 milliamp trip threshold (compared to a typical 5 milliamp GFI) which seems to allow for minor fluctuations and surge current during motor startup.

We have installed one system (50 amp / 240Vac x 2) and the owner reports no problems (nuisance tripping). In our research it appears to be good stuff. The owner spec'd the upgrade, it was expensive (fore and aft service) and everybody is happy.
I'm not sure myself if I would install the system on our ship as an upgrade (port and stb service x 2 each side). All of our wet areas are already GFI protected.
The insurance companies are not requiring it yet. Although, they do lean toward ABYC compliance a good bit. With new technologies, I can see the insurance companies asking for it, then ABYC and others may include it with their recommendations.
It's a new product. Newer technology. Think time vs cost. If you want something like this, it will get cheaper.
That said, it's still not going to fix the need for a new 115Vac run for your washer.

I was looking at what these ELCI's are and came across this scaremongering statement:
A Coast Guard sponsored study
showed numerous instances of
electrical leakage causing drowning
or potential drowning even though
the shock did not directly cause
electrocution.

This must be what's causing the rise in drownings at home , electricity has finally made it to the countryside and folks are drowning because of loose wires

Not electricity, in this remote neck of the woods it's that newfangled indoor plumbing!

Having read the news reports I am wondering myself if the loose wires really are in the land based distribution network.

A few too many drinks, swimming fully clothed and ignoring local advice seem to be among the regular reports.