Click for Glendinning Click for Abeking Click for Burger Click for Mulder Click for Westport

Choosing a yard to build a new yacht?

Discussion in 'General Yachting Discussion' started by NEO56, Jun 12, 2014.

You need to be registered and signed in to view this content.
  1. YachtForums

    YachtForums Administrator

    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2002
    Messages:
    20,611
    Location:
    South Florida
    You are correct. My bad! Trying to migrate JF to a new platform. My mind is in another place!
  2. NEO56

    NEO56 Member

    Joined:
    May 2, 2014
    Messages:
    656
    Location:
    Miami
    Thank you germanyachting....I just got off the phone with Nordlund, and they usually build cored hulls, but being the custom yard that they are, they will build in solid glass for me. I think I might have found my builder! Besides, it's a lot easier to jump on a plane to Washington State than flying to Taiwan to visit the yard. Nordlund is one of the few builders in the world that offer a yachtfish these days.
  3. NEO56

    NEO56 Member

    Joined:
    May 2, 2014
    Messages:
    656
    Location:
    Miami
    Hi Capt J,
    Just got off the phone with Gary at Nordlund, looks like they've won my business. Going out there in September right after the Reno Air Races to check them out. They sound exactly what I'm looking for, thanks guys!
  4. PacBlue

    PacBlue Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2009
    Messages:
    1,994
    Location:
    Dana Point, Ca
    What is your concern regarding todays modern vacuum bagged cored hulls - are you talking below or above the waterline or the entire hull?
  5. NEO56

    NEO56 Member

    Joined:
    May 2, 2014
    Messages:
    656
    Location:
    Miami
    Hi PacBlue,
    I'm sorry but a boat that size 60+feet is going to flex and torque in larger Seas, and nobody has been able to convince me that the hull won't start De-laminating at some point in time. Thank you very much, but I'll sacrifice several hundred or thousand pounds and speed for peace of mind. And what happens if you need to do some work on the hull that requires removing some part of the hull (either bottom or sides) how do you maintain structural integrity?
  6. PacBlue

    PacBlue Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2009
    Messages:
    1,994
    Location:
    Dana Point, Ca
    This may be the start of a different thread, but I would suggest you sit down with the Nordlund team to discuss solid frp vs cored construction.

    You should make your decision on sound engineering principles as well as best practices.

    Generally, a suitable cored hull (vacuum bagged construction) will be stiffer and flex less than a solid frp one. It will also be heavier than solid frp construction.

    If you are looking for a conservative approach you could have solid frp construction below the waterline and cored above the waterline. You could also limit the solid frp along the hull bottom from approximately the owners stateroom to the transom, and core the hull forward at this point for best structural impact performance in rough seas.

    You have some work to do in making this decision.
  7. sunchaserv

    sunchaserv Member

    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2011
    Messages:
    140
    Location:
    Carefree, AZ
    NE056

    A good friend of mine Captains a +110 Nordlund. If you have a desire to talk with him about Nordlunds vs other +100 size yachts PM me and I'll try to get you together.
  8. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2005
    Messages:
    14,532
    Location:
    Fort Lauderdale
    They have been using cored hulls for many decades and they survive just fine. Fixing them is not a problem either and can be done just as well as FRP. Look at the custom sportfish's that have been using the cold molded method since the 1960's or 1970's. Coring is definately stronger and lighter. I wouldn't be afraid of it. I prefer a glass hull with cored sides if I was going typical FRP with it. Cold molded would be no issue for me, and in a lot of aspects better than FRP, quieter, lighter etc.....
  9. NEO56

    NEO56 Member

    Joined:
    May 2, 2014
    Messages:
    656
    Location:
    Miami
    Capt J,
    I'm going to take your advice and go with solid bottom with cored sides (assuming Norlund can do a better job of convincing me. I will include several layers of Kevlar, or similar material in the lay up schedule. I don't have a problem with the SCRIMP (vacuum bagging system) I just have a problem with the laminates....In my mind, it's kind of like buying a car made on a Friday,usually not the factory's best day, if it's done right and flawlessly, then it's the greatest thing in the world. And with my luck, I'd get the hull done on the day that the entire crew was coming off a three day drunk. I'm just sayin'.

    I guess they are going to have to fabricate a solid glass/Kevlar panel, and a cored panel and give me 10 minutes with a 40 lb sledge hammer...then they might convince me.

    I'm sure that someone can give me a more accurate number, but last time I saw a number, there were like 800 shipping containers lost overboard every year. If I could afford it, I would build in Steel, if there was such a thing as a Semi Displacement Steel hull. If I were to hit a semi submerged container in a shipping lane at 10 knots, I'd dent a Steel Hull. If I hit one (which based on my luck...I would) in a Cored hull, I'd start saying my prayers. I'm probably going to have a good sized piece of Steel glassed into the bow that runs at least half way down the keel.

    Call me paranoid, but running a boat is like flying a plane, if you get into trouble, you can't pull over to the side of the road and call AAA. If I'm going to spend this kind of money on a new build, I'd like to think that she's prepared for just about any contingency.
  10. Capt Bill11

    Capt Bill11 Senior Member

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2006
    Messages:
    1,459
    Location:
    Sarasota/Ft. Lauderdale FL
    While I think you're worrying about the wrong things. If you insist on adding steel to the hull, I'd put it on the outside of the hull not embedded into the hull.
  11. NEO56

    NEO56 Member

    Joined:
    May 2, 2014
    Messages:
    656
    Location:
    Miami
    Huh? How would you do that? I'd be afraid that water would get in between the Hull and the Steel plate, and corrode the Steel. Sorry my friend, I don't get it.
  12. CaptPKilbride

    CaptPKilbride Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2004
    Messages:
    587
    Location:
    On the water
    You should invite any yard considering bidding on your boat to read your posts here. You are all over the map. Kevlar ... Steel ... Screw it, why not write a couple of layers of unobtainium into your spec.

    And a sledge hammer ????? Oh man.

    Running a boat is not like flying a plane.
  13. Fishtigua

    Fishtigua Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2007
    Messages:
    2,935
    Location:
    Guernsey/Antigua
    Nothing wrong with cored hulls. I've not heard of any Hinkleys having a problem since they started to build hulls that way. I also used to build 70/80 footers with a blend of solid and cored hull and superstructures. These boats were as tough as a battleship.

    I do agree that Yachtfishers around the 100' mark are some of the best looking yachts around and so practical.
  14. NEO56

    NEO56 Member

    Joined:
    May 2, 2014
    Messages:
    656
    Location:
    Miami
    I'm sorry, I was trying to make a point. Either I need to work on my writing skills or somebody needs to work on their reading comprehension.
  15. olderboater

    olderboater Senior Member

    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2013
    Messages:
    7,130
    Location:
    Fort Lauderdale
    Truest words you've said. You're going to be talking to a builder that has built quite a few boats in the range you're looking for. To my knowledge, you've never built one. Yet, you're talking about one thing after another that is far outside any norm. Have you read the full story of the build of Baden, the Northern 90'? That was a build intended to do more and more and more in many different directions. It was to be something they'd never done. And it turned out to be. If you respond to their suggestions as you have here by giving a reason each of their suggestions is invalid, you're going to end up in trouble. You're reinventing the wheel when the round one works perfectly well. You'd be far better served to make very slight modifications to proven designs and construction methods. And I'd certainly recommend you finding someone experienced in new builds of boats that size to serve as your representative throughout the process.

    Thousands of great boats have been built and are on the water. Yes, each is a little different. But within all those boats you can surely find some methods that have been used and would meet your needs. There is no better built glass or composite hull for a 100'+/- hull than Hatteras. They use resin infusion. Nordhavn uses solid laminates in the hull bottom but they even state that they're able to do this because in their boats weight isn't important. You want the characteristics of steel when you run into containers and you want the performance of a semi-displacement glass hull. I don't know your thoughts about aluminum as an in-between option. You want a motor yacht and sportsfisherman and there are two builders who I know of who do that.

    Every boat is a compromise. You have to sacrifice some features you'd like along the way. Someone said you should show your posts here to your builder. Well, the builders I know best would run away quickly if you insisted on what you've been saying here. And if a builder tells you, "Yes, we can do that" then you may be headed for the biggest disaster of your life.

    You used an airplane analogy. So, I'll use one. This isn't rocket science. Boatbuilding isn't. It's been done for centuries. People with far more knowledge than you or I have are actively involved in boat building. There are brilliant naval architects around the world who could help you design a boat, if you'd listen and if you were willing to compromise. You want a solid hull with Kevlar and Steel and unique equipment in every way, your 100' boat will end up costing $20+ million and being worth $3 million.

    I'd strongly suggest you charter a few boats in the range you're looking and learn the pros and cons of them. You'll find some pretty incredible boats already have been conceived. But you won't be the first buyer to want to revolutionize the industry with their ideas and without experience. If it works for you though you may be the first for whom it has. I don't know much about the technical aspects of building, but I know enough to know what I don't know.
  16. Old Phart

    Old Phart Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2011
    Messages:
    1,329
    Location:
    I dunno
  17. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2005
    Messages:
    14,532
    Location:
    Fort Lauderdale
    Have you ever been on a boat that had Kevlar in the hull? I was on a 65' cold molded kevlar hull sportfish. At cruise it was the noisiest yacht I have ever been on and sounded like the entire boat was disintigrating everytime it hit a wave, but it never did.
  18. SomeTexan

    SomeTexan Member

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2013
    Messages:
    190
    Location:
    Texas, landlocked for a bit longer...
    Neo, I think you need to find a builder who is trustworthy, and tell them what you want. Let them use the methods they are familiar with. Their best product will be what they specialize in, correct?

    I think you worry to much about hitting stuff. Yes, it would nearly always be fatal in aircraft, but remaining calm and having the right safety gear would keep you safe in most nautical situations.
  19. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2005
    Messages:
    14,532
    Location:
    Fort Lauderdale
    Why not just have your yacht built out of Titanium?
  20. NEO56

    NEO56 Member

    Joined:
    May 2, 2014
    Messages:
    656
    Location:
    Miami
    Olderboater, I understand what you're saying, everything is a compromise when it comes to a boat, you add weight, you sacrifice speed, increase beam, lose efficiency, the list goes on and on. I've spent enough time on boats, to know what works for me and what doesn't. All of my doubts and aspirations will be addressed by the Builder. I don't want to spend 20 million for a 3 million dollar boat. I want the best I can have at a reasonable price. I know I can't have everything I want in a boat, nor could I afford it. I'm going to sit down with the Builder in September, and write a number down, and ask them what they can achieve with that budget. And I'll let them tell me. I'll express my concerns, and let them offer solutions. And we'll go from there.

    I had a conversation with a Gentleman today from this site, who has overseen builds much larger than mine, and by his own admission is used to larger equipment, but has agreed to be an adviser when it comes to sign the contract, and continue throughout the build. His knowledge far exceeds mine when it comes to boat building. He even mentioned buying a used Hatteras and re-powering it along other modifications. But I want a new boat, with new warranties, etc. But I feel a lot better about this, having him on my team.