Anchoring Bridles

Ultra Snubbers

https://www.ropeinc.com/anchor-chain-snubber-line.html

Dave

Why do you need an anchor bridle? On larger yachts in the 100+ ton range I'm familiar with the anchor system, chain stops, capstan, decking, etc are designed to take the anchor loads. What says your vessel's builder?

I do the same as Pascal on my 70, bridal not really necessary except for comfort in the fwd s/r

Capstans and windlasses are not really designed to take the loads of anchoring. And while chain stops may be capable of it if installed correctly, they do nothing to absorb the shock loads of the vessel coming tight on its chain in a blow. Plus as Pascal mentions a bridle or snubber can make for a much quieter night at anchor for any one sleeping forward.

I use them as a matter of course when anchoring. It only takes a minute or two to set one up , whether it's a true bridle or just a single line snubber, and that way if it blows up at night your set.

I'm with Bill. They are also a much better thing to use to break out an especially stuck anchor, taking strain off the pulpit and roller as well as the windlass system.

Just be careful you don't hold the chain too close to the stem with a bridle, can really mess up the finish on the bow and the shear. Good luck with your solution, it is always a compromise. some yachties just stay on the dock to avoid the problem..I am sure ymmv

Do you mean that you're using a single line? Because if so, I can't figure why it should reduce the swinging.
I mean, however smaller it might be on one side, isn't it equally larger on the opposite side?
Fwiw, I've always used two lines for that reason, which (unless I misunderstood them) is what also rcrapps and Pascal suggested.

Interesting. Actually I'm not so used to consider current, because in most of my usual anchorage spots it's not so relevant. But worth a try anyway.
20-30 degrees seems a LOT, though. How far are your first cleats from the bow?
In my boat, they are (the hawse-pipes actually, but that's what drives the geometry, rather than the cleat itself) roughly 4 feet back from the bow, and 3 feet from the centreline.
And after them, the next are alongside, on the walkarounds, too far to use them for bridles, I think....

We weigh around 65 tons, and use a snubber whenever we anchor. Quieter, and it moves the load from the windlass where it doesn't belong to a strong point cleat designed to handle the load.

After years of using chain hooks, we switched to a 3/8" Plasma soft shackle which is a lot stronger than any hook, and doesn't beat up the paint. For light conditions, we use 5/8" 3 strand, 30' long. If we think it might blow, we shift to 3/4" octoplait joined to 1/2" Dyneema that is only long enough to run over the roller before the octoplait picks up the load. Ideally, you want stretch to be induced in the snubber since that significantly reduces the load on the chain. Our snubber will hit maximum stretch before failure just below the breaking strength of the chain, so we lay out an overhang of chain after the snubber is taut of a length equal to the desired maximum stretch of the snubber.

Probably all overkill, but why not.

Welcome aboard, Delfin!

With your wealth of knowledge and proven by your outstanding yacht, I look forward to reading more of your valuable contributions. Thanks for participating!

Judy

On larger vessels say, 50 tons and upwards, why would the windlass not be able to take the strain of the rode being secured to the windlass via snubber line or other satisfactory method ?, would that not be more secure than a deck cleat ?