Post 43 Cruise Speed?

So many variables. So few people who can work on a 71 and are motivated. You would think anybody can work on a 60+ year old design, guess not. Then part orders and any machine work.
2 good kids who know what they are doing can rebuild / deliver (inframe) both mains in 7 to 10 days. Some faster.
Shop around and get lots of dockside chatter. In Florida, there are a lot of good DDC tech's AND a lot of wannabes that will bend you over.

I can't find the quote but I thought 2300 hours??
Run well and some fresh oil thrown at them from time to time, the straight 71 can have some very long lives. You mentioned TI,,, or TIBs?

Dry, cool. I'll check my part number and if good, keep in mind for a back up plan. Even if it's for the other main months/years down the road (water way)..

Dry turbo,, Then NOT TIB.

Right, no bypass

Thank you! That is a great idea.

Found it, entry #29, 2200 hours. You may never know if that was easy or hard hours.

Old school, fuel use or hp/hour was the larger factor in determining TBOH.

Look forward to your sea trial and surveyors final report.

You may be pleasantly surprised.

Hi,

Sounds exciting for you. Good luck.

The Lectrasan people will re-build the units if you send it to them.
I know a new one is pricey.
When I have dealt with them in the past, they were very helpful.
They are some of the best customer service people I have run into regarding the boat.

Keep posting.

I will definitely provide updates, thanks! And, yes I would love to be pleasantly surprised...

That's good, thanks!
I guess they need to be de-pooed prior to sending in the mail given all the hubbub about hazardous materials
That would certainly be an interesting topic but I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.

Thanks C46!

One other thing about the survey. Neither rudder had zincs applied. The boat had been hauled and painted a few months earlier so I was perplexed.

According to the yard (they hauled the boat and did the bottom job) the seller requested that rudder zincs NOT be placed. According to him, he contacted Post and they recommended against rudder zincs.

Have you guys heard this? I haven't called Post yet...

Seller is correct. All of the underwater metal parts (except the trim tabs) are connected through a bonding wire coming back on each side of the boat. They meet at the large zinc on the transom. You should definitely check to make sure all of the connections are still good on the thru hulls, shaft brushes, rudders, fuel tanks, etc. Some are connected in one chain so any wire break will stop the connection to the rear zinc. My marina has bad electrolysis issues so I have them also on the shafts and rudders but only to extend the time on the large zinc.

Got it, thanks.

Do you have a galvanic isolator in the shore power ground leg?

I am not sure. I will have to check that...

If not they are an easy install and good to have. You just put them in between the green wire on the boat's side of the shorepower wires.

Gotcha, So I should be able to trace the ground from the boat 50A receptacle as it courses toward the panel for a galvanic isolator?

Yup. They are the very best way of keeping your boat from being a zinc for the boats around you!

Haha. That would be a no go. I'll check it out next time I get to the boat or ask the seller...

Thanks!

Just came to my mind, I'm fully self supporting with solar and genpower, so no shore power connected, what does that mean?

It means that you don't need to worry about a galvanic isolater.

To the other poster. You want to trace the green wire from the boats 50amp recepticle. Usually they are mounted very close to the boat's 50amp recepticle.

Two boats tied together at the dock by the common green wire (ACv Ground fault line). Now all the underwater hardware is tied also.
Natures battery and the softer metals loose.

Now, Amplify this with a boat that has some leaking current on his boat. Ground fault current, Bad neutral connection, OR USUALLY, Some SFB that wired in his own air conditioning poorly. Your boat will loose zincs quickly, then you're bronze.

That is a great diagram. The galvanic isolator basically "unplugs" my boat from that great big battery called the marina and all my neighbors who are essentially functioning as cells. That seems straight forward enough. Thanks!

As to any stray current that comes from my own boat, would ensuring the absolute integrity of my bonding system eliminate this problem?