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Heat Exchangers?? Need Advice, PLEASE!

Discussion in 'Carver Yacht' started by Carver38, Apr 24, 2014.

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  1. Carver38

    Carver38 Member

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    OK......here's the back story......I am finally getting my '91 3807 out on the water. I have Cummins BTA 6 cylinder diesels. The port block was replaced about 50 hours ago, starts and runs instantly, and performs flawlessly so far.

    The Starboard is a different story. Hard start when cold, starts fine once warmed up, smokes (white) a lot upon start-up but clears up within minutes.

    But that's not my concern.

    My concern is that since this boat is new to me, after about 5 hours of running, I moved all the salon furniture, rolled up the new rug, and got down in the engine room to see if everything looked ok, and check all the fluids.

    Low and Behold, the Port side looked fine in every way, but the Starboard side needed 3 full GALLONS of anti-freeze mix to top it off! The oil looked fine, no sign of anti-freeze infiltration, and there wasn't a drop of anti-freeze in the bilge or anywhere on or near the engine.

    I put a pressure unit on the engine's antifreeze filler tube and brought it up to 15 pounds. It was my hope I'd find a pin-hole in one of the hoses but that didn't happen.

    What DID happen was the pressure gauge slowly dropped down to about 5 pounds, and when I re-checked the radiator, it was down a FULL GALLON!

    Where did it GO???

    NO sign of antifreeze anywhere in the bilge or on or near the engine. The only place I can think it went was out the exhaust, although I have no proof and maybe I am way off base, but I did lose a gallon of antifreeze into thin air!

    Does this indicate a bad heat exchanger? I am confident they have never been cleaned or otherwise serviced or replaced, and the engine now has just over 1100 hours.

    Should I just order a heat exchanger and new hoses that attach to it and install that, or is there a cheaper and simpler way? Or am I totally going in the wrong direction anyway?

    PLEASE HELP?? I need to fix my boat and start practicing docking!!

    Seriously....I would deeply appreciate any and all advice offered!
  2. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    I think it indicates a blown head gasket and it is getting into the motor. White smoke on startup is generally coolant being burned in the engine.
  3. Carver38

    Carver38 Member

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    If the head gasket is blown, would the engine still be able to maintain the same RPM's at the same temp (180) while cruising? My usual cruising speed is about 16-19 knots at 2200-2400 rpm and the motors both top out at 3100 rpms and around 26 knots, depending on the sea and how many people are aboard. (Keep in mind the water is still pretty cold here and I have had no more than 4 people on board during these runs.)

    Both engines operate identically (maybe a bit more throttle, a tiny bit, to the starboard engine, but that could be a cable issue IMHO, since they're very stiff), and after the boat is warmed up neither engine smokes. That white smoke is only at start-up and it's brief.

    Would an engine with a blown head gasket perform for all intents and purposes, other than the missing anti-freeze, the same as a healthy engine?

    Temps on both motors run right at 180, except the last time I was out and the Starboard engine went to 200 under full throttle, then backed right back down to 180 when I let off the hammer. I feel that was a result of the low anti-freeze level at the time since it took 3 gallons to fill it back up when I checked the fluids.

    And would a blown head gasket take that gallon of anti-freeze I lost doing the pressure test today into the engine? I restarted the engine after refilling and it started immediately with only a slight amount of white smoke since I had already started it earlier.

    Anybody else also think I should be looking for a blown head gasket? NOT a heat exchanger problem? I don't want to order $1500 worth of parts (heat exchanger, hoses, etc) if that's not going to cure my problem!
  4. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    Well, remove the sea-water hoses for the heat exchanger. Dry the saltwater side of the heat exchanger as much as possible and pump the system back up and see if you get coolant into it.
  5. Carver38

    Carver38 Member

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    Capt J....are you thinking one or more of the tubes in the heat exchanger may be leaking into the sea-water surrounding them and then exiting that way? How would I test for that? Please explain again if that's what you're saying....sorry, but I am totally new at this and really confused, but trying to do as much work as I can myself. If that's not what you're saying sorry for misunderstanding but please explain what you're saying I should be looking for an how to do it. Thanks so much for your advice!
  6. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    If I remember, these HEs have end caps. Remove the back cap, let it drain, Then pump the system up again.
    DO NOT exceed 8 to 10 psi. 15 was dangerously to high.
    Even the old HEs were made pretty well but a guess can still fail.

    Your going to need a good Cummins mechanic to fix you injector pump for the hard starting issue (broke check valve spring). So have him look over the head and cooling issues.

    Does your suspect engine have extra hoses leading off to an old water heater or remote option?
  7. Monepit

    Monepit Member

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    I know the earlier 5.9 had a problem with an exhaust elbow. You might research that.
  8. Carver38

    Carver38 Member

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    Guys, thanks so much for the responses....can you please provide a couple fill-in details?

    I tested at 15 PSI because my radiator cap is a 15.......please explain the danger of pumping the system to 15 psi? What can happen? (NOT challenging you....I want to learn.)

    When you say remove the back end cap....do you mean the end facing the exhaust? (I know this may be a dumb question, I just want to be sure.)

    Once I remove that cap, and then pump up, won't the antifreeze just flow out?

    Is there ANY chance this is NOT the heat exchanger?

    If it IS...then the tubes inside are leaking coolant into the surrounding seawater inside the chamber, right? And THAT would be how I am losing the coolant, if I understand the process of the HE correctly.


    And what was the exhaust elbow issue?

    Does it make sense to just replace it and all the hoses that connect it? (The hoses are all circa 1991 so I'd change those too,of course.
  9. olderboater

    olderboater Senior Member

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    Ralph gave what I feel is a good suggestion. I'd really suggest getting a good mechanic to look at it. While I know you want to do what you can, this is a situation where you really don't have the knowledge (although you have a thousand times the engine knowledge I have) and getting guesses as to the problem online probably isn't going to get you there, even as educated as the guesses might be. One of the ways to learn is to get a professional and watch what he does in the early stages of one's education. Even later it's to get that help when required. You could end up replacing parts, doing a lot of work, and still missing issues and it could be costly in time and money but also in potential greater damage. Honestly as you talk about the hoses and other things, just to have a professional mechanic on site looking at it might catch some other issues ahead of time too.
  10. Carver38

    Carver38 Member

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    I understand exactly what you're saying and I too feel I am quickly getting out of my depth here, My previous mechanical experience is limited to the pre-EPA/CAT cars when I was a kid (when cars had carbs and you could tune up a car and and change the oil all in an hour!), and motorcycles, prior to EFI. (Same scenario.)

    I don't understand Turbo's, I don't understand EFI, an above all, I don't understand MARINE engines, PARTICULARLY diesels, and how they work and how they cool themselves with a combination of antifreeze and sea-water via these "heat exchangers". I mean, I get it in theory, but that's about all.

    I was trying to avoid the $100 X2 (he brings a helper every time) I pay my mechanic. I did that all winter and frankly I am REALLY sick of every thing costing 4 figures no matter how small the issue. If I can save money by eliminating the labor rate, that will help a LOT.

    But I realize I am not ready to take on big projects yet, even though if it IS the HE, it looks like an EXTREMELY simple part to change out. (A couple bolts and a couple hoses, all easily accessible.)

    But maybe it isn't the HE to begin with and I'd be ordering non-returnable parts to the tune of almost $2K when in fact the problem lies elsewhere.

    So....OK.

    I'll call my mechanic and he'll do the job.

    But I intend to sit there watching the whole process beginning to end so I can learn. I have to. Owning a boat is a true joy when it's running right and all systems are working....not so much when once again I am opening the checkbook.

    I'll do whatever I have to do and spend what I have to spend....I knew this was an expensive pastime going in. But I am NOT going to continue to pay for things that I can do myself. So this time, the mechanic does it.


    NEXT time?

    ME.
  11. nomad69

    nomad69 Member

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    Get an engine block tester kit at your local parts store. It's about $25 for the kit. There is a tube that you will pour a couple of ozs. Test chemical into and then pull radiator cap off and place tapered end of tube into coolant tank. There is a hose on the other end that you will conect to engine vacumn. Run the engine at idle and if any exhaust gasses are leaking into coolant system (blown gasket) the chemical will change colors. It's an easy way to check for blown head gaskets.
    I would also think that you would have fluid locked the engine if you pumped a gallon of coolant ontop of the pistons without it running. Good way to bend a rod.

    Attached Files:

  12. olderboater

    olderboater Senior Member

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    One thing to consider if you plan on doing as much of your own work as possible to assist your growth might be some marine diesel classes. They're offered in many different forms in different areas. And think of half of what you're paying the mechanic as paying for the service and half for training.
  13. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Wrong cap on expansion tank. Depending on your model, Everything per serial number, you should have around 7 to 12 max. Somebody put auto caps on.

    On the HE ends, center bolt holds on the 6' round end cap. Lots of sea water will pour out. Pull it one night. Carefull with the round rubber gasket behind it. SOMETIMES you can reuse it. next morning pump up the full coolant side. If there is a leak between the coolant (fresh) side and the raw side, it will come drizzling out.
    Your model number will also state M1, 2 or 3. Sen-Dure HEs were on M1, 2s. Champ HEs were on M3s. Cummins made the change without fanfare. All are good units. Checking serial numbers is the best way again to make sure of any part & spec involved.

    Coolant or fresh side of the HE is surrounding the tubes in the HE. The end caps only allow access to the raw (sea water) side. If coolant comes out the ends, trash the HE.

    If no coolant comes out. Your sure it's not in the bilge. Your sure it's not in your water heater. Your sure it's not overflowing in the recovery bottle, Then as Skippy J stated long ago, blown head gasket or cracked head and the white/grey smoke points there also.

    The exhaust elbow/dump can uses sea/raw water. The larger turbos were fresh water cooled. I guess if were talking far reaching failures, it is possible for the water jacket to crack and leak coolant into the exhaust system. I can not picture if the cummins turbo has one or two hose connects to it. I remember the banjo on the bottom. Maybe a bib on the top. With a 1" Maybe 1 1/4" hose, you can bypass the turbo, run up some pressure and see if it leaks down (after HE testing).

    I have typed all this up to help and answer your questions. This is NOT your Chevy but a well built part of industrial machinery. I do recommend if you're not confident working on this to call a tech.

    If you're budget conscious, you can not just start swapping parts. People with this mind frame usually induce more problems and cost way more than calling in a good tech long ago.
    You can not warranty your purchases and labor, and good tech can.

    Start shopping for a good tech. There are some good folks here that can probably point you to a good one close to you.

    Only one hose coming from the turbo. Scratch my bypass idea above. I guess the best way to test for internal coolant turbo leak is to pull off the riser/dump can and observe coolant in the compressor area. The mounting bolts will probably break.

    Call a tech.
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2014
  14. Carver38

    Carver38 Member

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    Just to make sure I am rightfully extremely worried now....am I understanding you guys correctly that by pumping up the coolant system to 15PSI for a few minutes, then finding it a gallon low with no sign of pinholes in hoses like I was hoping to find, or any coolant anywhere in the bilge, is it possible I forced a gallon of coolant right into the engine??? Right along with the oil? So that I should under no circumstances start the engine? Should I be draining the oil right away and replacing it? Or flushing the engine with something? How would that have happened by pressure testing the coolant system? Even if I used too much pressure for about 5 minutes?

    Rest assured I am DEFINITELY calling in a diesel mechanic at this point, but I need to know what to expect he'll find! Have I really screwed up here with this test I attempted? Isn't it possible it went through the HE (which has a tube leading right into the exhaust) and out the exhaust if the HE is failing inside?

    Sorry guys, but what you're hearing is a slight case of panic!
  15. K1W1

    K1W1 Senior Member

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    Hi,

    The white stuff you see with coolant being boiled off is steam not smoke.

    White smoke is normally unburnt fuel. Cold engines and a lack of compression can both cause it.
  16. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Yep, Panic.
    If it went into the exhaust, even if it's a cracked exhaust manifold (Long shot & not mentioned yet) It's NOT going to drain up hill, up the riser and past the dump can. It may flow back into an open exhaust valve into a cylinder. Remember high school science, water does not compress. Rods get bent and holes appear on block sides.
    Lets stay with the usual culprit (HE) till you get a tech involved. Who knows, It could be something simple (usually is) like a manifold cap gasket, That nobody has mentioned yet.
  17. dsharp

    dsharp Senior Member

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    I wouldn't Buy a new heat exchanger bundle until your sure that's what the problem is. Anything that is freshwater cooled is suspect. I'm not familar with that engine but you need to figure out if the oil cooler and gear cooler are freshwater cooled. You can also rig up a pvc t fitting with a schrader (tire valve ) and gauge to pump up the saltwater side of the heat exchanger with air to see if it holds pressure. The same rig can be used to test the exhaust manifold.
  18. olderboater

    olderboater Senior Member

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    I don't think anyone is saying to panic. Just get a professional before you go down a wrong path. Whether it's minor or major, the important thing is to figure out the cause. All you really know now is it's an unidentified problem that could be many different things, some perhaps minor, some major.
  19. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Well, I Bo Bo'd and said it. I may have been off base there.
    How about Stop and get Help.
  20. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    In cold and worn engines that didn't have enough compression to ignite all of the fuel when they were cold, the smoke I've always seen was grey and not white......always a solid grey color. I've run lots of Detroits that had thousands upon thousands of hours, a few of them you had to walk 100' from the boat for the first 10 minutes......