Anchoring .... Back and Forth

In winds under 15kts I don't use a bridle,l yes the boat (70' Johnson skylounge with high windage) swings quite a bit... So what? The catenary effect from the chain dampens the sock pretty well (7:1 scope)

Over 15" I use a bridle... Just two basic nylon lines attached to a big schakle and chain hook. Each line is attached to a cleat on each side of the bow. I leave a big loop of chain dangling, I ve held in squalls up to 65kts no issue.

I probably anchor 200 times a year...

This is a good method, or I use 30' of Nylon rope hooked to the anchor chain, then I leave a lot of slack in the chain to where it's almost touching the bottom (in 20' of water or less). Sometimes tieing the Nylon rope to a cleat 15-20' aft of the bow helps as well if it's not going to run on the boat. The excess chain in the water helps to minimize the swinging a little by creating drag. A stern anchor is another option, but I'd use a 30lb Fortress (or less for that) with 10' of chain and nylon.....back up on your main anchor an extra 150', toss the Fortress, come back foward on your bow anchor 150' or so and set the Fortress.

Each line is 25' I think. The bow cleats are about 8' behind the chocks located at the bow so the lines needs to be a little longer.

The main reason I use the bridle is really for noise as otherwise the chains rattles on the roller and against the SS plates lining the anchor chute. I don't think it makes a big difference in swing, although yes the drag of the chain probably helps a bit.

Drag makes a difference at to the stern though. What s the draft on the 68 Laz? I think they are around 5' aren't they. We draw a little over 6 and that probably helps reduce the swing

Usually about 25' is good on each bridle line. If I'm using a snubber line, I use a long line usually around 30', sometimes more. I've used double braid and on the 75' hatteras it liked it tied to the first cleat aft of the bow, about 10' back which gave the current enough resistance on the side of the keel that it didn't swing much. Turning the rudders hard over also helps on some boats if you have a decent amount of current. 3 strand can also help as a shock absorber over double braid. Each boat is different and you have to experiment a little, and some just anchor perfectly without having to experiment with anything. I've used sea anchors for fishing and I don't think they'd be good for anchoring. First you need decent current all of the time for them, also they like to spin and twist the line up eventually, and at slack tide they'll just get tangled on the bottom and not re-deploy themselves.

Except for med mooring, which is extremely rare on this side of the pond, I don't see the point of using two anchors. It s a lot more work and I d rather have an oversized anchor than two smaller ones.

Even a Bahamian mooring is rarely needed. We spend a lot of time anchored there and I have never needed to use two anchors.

I like the KISS method.... One big oversized anchor, enough scope = no worries

I don't mind one anchor. I like a lot of chain, like 300' with a lot of rope behind it, such as another 150-200 yards.

Each sized anchor is rated for it's load or how much weight it is designed to hold (with proper scope).