custom 1980 46' post

hull # 46-023, reborn after a fire

planed and epoxied bottom

taking care of blisters

finished hull

Three coats of epoxy, three coats of epoxy barrier, three coats of ablative bottom paint. hull is Boero paint "ice Blue"

portlights are beckson, direct replacements for the original, I have faired, primed and painted them to match the hull

adding a swim platform

only want covering boards and salon door teak. I am going to build a teak rocket launcher for the cockpit

some interior ideas

Shelf in salon
Washer/ dryer
I like my coffee
Vent cover, closed, screen, or open
Sailfish hat/ coat/ sunglass hanger

very dependable DD 671, got 24 knots on a new bottom and prop speed

Purchased the boat in 2005, burnt up pretty bad, gave me the opportunity to build what I wanted

a little more recent

Built a cabinet around a 43" Samsung

Salon floor rebuilt, bilge painted, new fuel tanks, starting to tighten up the power plants

All the original mahogany stripped and refinished, new solid mahogany valances,

Wiring refurbished with upgraded switches, and leds

Full size fridge, with freezer draw, 3/8" maple and sapele tongue and groove flooring, if you look close you will find I still have access to the bilge, removed wall paper from doors, found they were mahogany, refinished

What size did you install, why two instead of one?

Fire started on the port aft corner of the salon, just below the salon floor.
Guessing it was due to all the wires that are there running up to the helm. Previous owner says it was due to lightening, did not find any other sign of that. In most cases with a strike an entrance point and an exit point can be found.
In my opinion chafing, corrosion or unprotected circuit is more likely.
The pictures show were the damage was focused. Engine room vent was gone on the port side, had to mold a new one. Three ribs had to be fabricated. Heat damaged fiberglass had to be removed and refabricated from the helm to about 8 inches above the water line. Boat did not sink. Port window had to be reformed. Walkway and toe rail had to be reformed.
All the fiberglass repair was done with epoxy resin, the wiring was replaced to ABYC standards, the ribs are made of 2 pieces of 3/4" marine ply, saturated in epoxy, walkway and toe rail fabricated with Douglas fir wrapped with 8# biaxial woven and saturated in epoxy.
In the house I used alternating layers of biaxial woven and matt, with a honey comb core, instead of end grain balsa.
The hull is rebuilt with alternating layers of woven and matt also to a total thickness of about 11/16" thick, which is a little more than what was there originally.
All the plywood in the engine room was replaced with a product we call "Daytona Board" available from Piedmont Plastics, it can be painted and epoxied.
the

Did you install an outside pull cable to set it off manually? I am undecided if I should do that.