Water leaks

Very possible, and it's not a big job if caught early. Simply back out the screws, put caulking in the holes and screw them back in. Another area where this happens a lot in behind the rubrails. That's a bit more labor intensive, but not difficult. You do want to get it done asap though as the real problem is not the water in the galley, but the damage it does to the core under the gel coat on the way there.

As NYCap said, it shouldn't be hard if there isn't core damage under, however be sure to take a moisture meter to the affected area prior to doing anything to ensure you aren't sealing moisture in which will haunt you later.

That depends on what kind of rail you have. (insert/no insert, on with clips or screwed directly). If the screws are visable then it's just a matter of pulling them one by one and caulking as you pit them back. Otherwise you have to start at the end, remove the whole thing (being careful not to kink it). Unless there is evidence of a hard hit in the area of the leak I'd be more inclined to think the leak is coming from the deck screws or even from a window. Leaks on a boat can be insidious. It's not all that unusual for a leak to be at the bow and show up on the inside at the stern. Try flooding the area you suspect, then move to the next and try to zero in on it. That may save you a lot of unnecessary work.

Sounds like you have an easy fix then. I like 3M 5200. Good luck.

Morning all,
I think the word insidious is probably the most accurate way to describe leaks on any vessel. While NYCAP123 suggests 3M 5200, I would suggest a less "permanent" type of sealant. 3M 4200 perhaps or my favorite, Dolfinite. Keep in mind, this is a task that may have to be redone at some point in the future and removal of the old caulk will probably be necessary to effect a proper repair. 5200 is a bear to remove in my experience. Also be aware that if you flood any area to check for leaks, you will have to allow that area to dry out before proceeding.
Peter

The subject of caulks has been covered on other threads, and I expected it to come up here when I mentioned 5200, because it is a bear to remove. I recommended 5200 because of the location. On seams, etc. I agree with the 4200, but I never fully trust a screw that's been removed from fiberglass and re-inserted. On a hand rail I'd be looking for that bond as well as the sealing qualities.