New Project 79 Chris Craft 22' CC Dory

Chirp from cricket

Have been busy contemplating old boat mysteries as finishing tear down and foraging for miscellaneous parts.

I still am looking for some good pictures of what the "OEM" woodwork looked like on the console and forward locker doors. Was it mahogany as was used in most Chris Crafts of the era as I've been told?

Today my order is going in for new "OEM" rub rail from Wefco - after much agonizing I have decided on OEM gray over black or white, thinking it will give the best balance in appearance v. maintenance.

Recent victory pictures below - expected to arrive today so I can chase replating...

Michael

G10 backers for strut and rudder post

Here are pictures of G10 used to back up the strut and the rudder post. We epoxied two pieces of 1/2 inch board and tied it into the struts to support the upper end of the rudder post. I think this is a much better solution than the starboard used by the PO, who used no upper support on the RP BTW.

I love that setup! Can't believe I didn't do that. At least up until now! We will be making that mod immediately. I am looking into the platform specs and will get back to you on that. Send me a PM as to what you are looking to get for it.

Great job.

Al

That does look far better/stronger than what's in mine (which is basically nothing but the rudder shaft extending about 4" above the bell crank)... I believe I'll install this mod, too, as soon as we have the stripping out of stuff done to clear the space. I second the good job kudos.

I'm still foraging/begging for any pictures of old "OEM" cabinet work to at least get a style idea from...

Lastly, my console as received was hinged to fold forward - but it appears there are screw holes all around the console base to permanently fix it in position. What's worked out the best in these boats?

Happy Thursday, y'all
M

Trim Tabs

These boats are very heavy in the aft with a high bow to try to see over. Mine came with 12" by 9" Lenco tabs which don't get the job done. I have been working with Bennett on the issue and they recommend 24" by 9" or 24" by 12". Having the benefit of 20 or so hours of use, I am going to switch to 24" by 12".

The picture is with the Lenco 12 by 9s showing how much area is available for much larger tabs.

BTW, I have enough G10 board left from the original 2' by 3' by 1/2" to mod another boat's strut and rudder post. $100.00 plus shipping from NE GA. Less than half price if you can use it.

Couple of thoughts here....

Rudder: Agree with Al, great innovation on the rudder stabilization. Like Mike, I just have to shaft sticking up out of the stuffing box. Is that a sensor on the top there that indicates rudder angle to the console?

Trim tabs: I could see the desire for theses..... I find the trim issue to be particularly challenging with a full tank of gas and a load of passengers. In the end I did not install these as I thought effectively attaching them was going to be difficult.

Console: My main console is screwed to the deck around the perimeter and that front cowling is hinged at the front by two hinges. I would not change this, but I would make sure you leave enough slack in the wires/steering/throttle cables so that it can be slid forward to work on the engine (like when I had to change the starter motor a few weeks back)

CM

Where's ed?????????????

Hi,

Last seen here: 07-22-2013 12:22 PM

Where's Trapshot/Ed?

Hi,

IRONMAN, The time stamp I posted is what it says under his profile name as the last time he visited the forum.

Hopefully he is busy enjoying his or someone else's boat and will return to posting when he can.

That green wire is a ground. I had to buy a new bushing and collar for the RP mod.

Cleaning day on A Dock. I am going to refinish the decks with light tan Interdeck soon. Hate that Awlgrip and sand finish. Got my new upholstery recently and I think the light tan decks will look good with the seats.

Hatch Gasket/Seal "L"

Howdy all...

As working through all my pieces-parts scrounging, a close examination of the original hatch seals on my boat revealed they were nominally 3/4 x 3/4 OD (close to 7/8?) with a 1/2 x 1/2 inside to the "L"... and oddly had a radius transition from the OD to ID profile. Wefco has a straight-cut 3/4 x 3/4 with a 1/4 thickness - but for $100 will make a tool to extrude an exact duplicate of the original. Anybody have experience with what works and what doesn't in this area? Anybody want some "OEM" profile made (even though it looks kinds screwy to me!) ?

I actually got my rub rail from Barbour - spoke with a guy named Mark there who was really helpful. I can give you the model number if you're interested in that.

For those hatch gaskets, mine were mostly just dirty. After removal, I submerged them in a solution of bleach and mildew remover (from Home Depot), and after some light brushing, came out looking like new.

Ed - hope the wife is feeling better.

CM

Hello again, Ed & CM...

I second the well wishes for your wife, Ed.

I checked the Barbour profiles in the catalog and unless I missed something couldn't find one I would call a match for the hatches on my rig. I almost suspect CC used something they had laying around the shop since the purpose of having radius corners on the gasket profile eludes me. Maybe they make it softer/more flexible at the edge???

I've already ordered my new rubrail from Wefco, opting to go with "OEM" gray vinyl @ $7/ft. (though a rigid profile with stainless insert would have looked pretty slick). For the hatch gasket they want $3.50 a foot whether stock or custom, so I think I'll go ahead and have them duplicate the OEM with the radius corners. While I am sure my old original one would clean up pretty nice, it seems exceedingly hard from age and I doubt it would seal much of anything nor quiet hatch rattle over the ICW speed bumps.

The hull fittings are pretty well stripped out now end-to-end, and we're patching the years of everybody's "better idea" screw holes. With any luck we'll have paint prep done in another week... perhaps a progress photo when it doesn't look like a war zone.

Michael

Divinycell or coring would be a much better choice for hatches than Balsa. Balsa soaks up water like a sponge and if you get any and I mean any water instrusion due to screws for hinges and such not being properly bedded, it will get soft very quickly and lose it's structural rigidity.