Change from 32 volt to 24 volt (or even 12 volt)

You can't downsize to 12v as the wiring will not be heavy enough. down to 24v has been done but there are really no valid reasons to do so as 32v stuff is not that hard to get and whatever money you re going to save using 24v stuff is going to be offset by the conversion costs.

Please look thru my history and find comments on 32vdc systems. 32vdc stuff is not hard to find. A proper inventory of spares like you would on 12vdc stuff keeps the surprises down. I shop and buy allot of new 32vdc stuff on line. The 32vdc system is nothing to be scared of and is very solid. It WILL always be around. You just need to shop and keep spares like you should be doing already.
Raritan supports 32vdc LetraSan systems easily. I'm about to install another one next week. Never had a problem finding 8vdc batteries (4 in series). Delco starter windings and alternator regulators are on the shelf, My shelf included (Oh, 32vdc starters last forever). 32vdc motors are still available new. If you don't stock any spares, it's just a second day away from most supply outlets. Understandable, high volume shops like West Marine and the like may not not keep much local but it's in the where-house.
If you need anything, tap on one of us ole Bert & Hat owners. I'm available by PM for anything extra.

32vdc, lighter wires. Less current draw. 32vdc on your boat now, reliable and paid for.

24vdc, going to 24vdc from 32vdc has NO advantages. You may tax marginal sized wires to carry more current. They may get warm and then,,,,. They will get hot if you go to a 12vdc system.

Remember your amp, volt, resistance rules.

Find a way to pay for diesel and enjoy your boat. When you have extra diesel, call me.

How many 30200-0020 or 98012-0040 32vdc blower or pump motors do you need. I have a pile collecting dust. One just sold on e-bay for $31.
Two cases of household screw in 32vdc lamps @ 25 watts. Another case Mixed up-to 50 watts (don't use them often). Bilge pumps, box of nav lamps, box of unused 32 to 12vdc converters. New 21 & 30 SI 32vdc alternators in my shed collecting dust (& rust). Never knew G4 lamps came in 32vdc. G4 LEDs start at $11.95.
Like I said, shop, stock and don't worry.
The sky is not falling. But it's your boat, conscious and future. And you have to decide how to protect your investments.

Chow.

I'm just not sure.


I had a surveyor tell me a couple of years ago that the 50 volt (48vdc) stuff was getting more popular. And, last week in an other thread here, a note about VW going to 48vdc and saving a lot of weight in a car.
Oh well.

My 10kw radar has to have at least 24vdc and loves 32 like most of my gear.

Lights don't dim (like on other 12vdc boats) when the head is operated. Old Crown stuff here still running fine. 32vdc Crown base motors in the shed collecting dust also. I have replaced only one head motor in 9 years. Un-noticed base leak soaked the motor.

It's just before 0600 here. I'll pull up some Rule pumps from the forward hold and get back to you later today. I use the same Rule H D float switch.

,rc

Four 8V batteries is the standard set up to make up a 32v bank. DO NOT try using 3x12v like some have tried.

Ideally, you should have a bank for each engine and a house bank. This is by far the best set up although many older hatteras have two bank, one per engine, and one of them used as a house bank. This works fine for most although it depends on how you use the boat. It you anchor out a lot and do not run the genset full time a dedicated house bank is a better option

AGMs are nice as you don't have to top them off which can be a pita on some boats with limited access to batteries. Personally I m not convinced they are worth twice the money as they dont last much longer than regular lead acids On my boat i use 8volt golf cart batteries which run about $120 a piece and weight about 70 lbs making them easy to install. Four of them have no problem cranking the 8v71ns

Some folks use Rolls batteries which come in 2v cells and are very durable.

Standardization must have been part of the switch to 24v but also i think that better accessories incl tinned wiring made it possible to use 24v on larger boats

I ran a cable from the 3rd battery top to the breaker panel. (24vdc). My plan was to slowly tie this strap to a breaker when I converted that circuit to 24vdc. (Nav lights, Blowers, options). That was near 9 years ago. The strap is still unused but in place.

My comment about tinned wiring is that it doenst corrode like bare copper and will not build resistance over time meaning that you can run slightly lower voltage (32 to 24v)

36v batteries in 32v system will not charge properly... Pretty obviously. Yet I ve seen it... And batteries don't last.

A friend of mine use the smae batteries with 8v92s. No problem

I get 4 years out of golf cart batteries. I ve yet to hear anyone getting more than twice that with rolls although maybe it is possible... I ve yet to see AGMs lasting more than 4 ton5 years.

I have a small 24v auxiliary bank on my boat for electronics and a few things like oil change pump and shower sumps.

I ve wondered ... But the house bank didn't last much longer although it is not in the ER

In all fairness we had a charger failure which resulted in deeply discharged batteries, and that may have shortened their life a little.