Waxing gelcoat

I would think the wax would lift the Nano. But that's my opinion and I know nothing about Sea Shield, and their chemists or engineers would know best. However, buffing the gelcoat with finesse would probably be the best before applying the nano.....or just wiping the gelcoat with a dewaxer would not be a bad idea before applying it.

I used their MPC cleaner to prep my hull spots for test. I'm sure it stripped the existing wax (what there was). It cleaned it like nothing I've ever seen, but it's not a replacement for a compound/polish.

Sea-Shield has various compounds. I've got some but haven't used them yet - I'm going to be starting maybe this weekend. If their other products are any indication, I'd image they are top quality. When I spoke with them, he told me to use their swirl remover if I really want the best finish. I'm no expert, so all you experts likely know this stuff already. He was very picky and told me that he gets hired to compound brand new mega-yachts and visibly improves the look of new paint. So far everything he told me has panned out so I'll go with this one.

My boat is an 07, and I compounded the hull last year, so that's in decent shape. I'm going to go over with their swirl remover (which I'm thinking is like a Finesse-It product) and see how I like it. There were spots I didn't get last year (the bridge hardtop being the worst) that I will go over with their more aggressive products.


I would definitely NOT put it over wax.

I can't say anything to the longevity of the products. They told me that they do it every 3-4 months in Florida for their mega yacht clients. That means I can likely get through the whole year on one pass. If not, who cares, it is REALLY easy to apply. They even sell a microfibre applicator that you can put on a broom handle and do your hull without a ladder!!!!

Their Nano fresh product is supposed to be mixed in a bit with a soap and water mix when you wash the boat and it bonds to the Nano-coating and keeps it up. The Nanofresh is cheap and you use very little, so I'm going to use it. I have not tried it.

The only negative is that I don't think the Nanofresh helps reinforce the Exhaust Guard product, so if diesel soot is a problem, then you may want to try it both ways.

Francisco (the owner) told me that their MPC cleaner won't hurt the Nano coating but will strip the Exhaust guard away.

Lastly, they make a cleaner wax, which is the cleaner with the nano-coating. I have to call him back and clarify on this. Why not just use this? I think he told me that the separate products will give you a better result, but I'm not sure if it will be a more durable result.

They love the Cyclo polisher. He says for swirl marks they are the best. I admit I broke down and bought one (locally though). Haven't tried it but I think it looks cool. I love the brush attachments and plan on using them heavily to do the diamond pattern non-skid and to get the Aurora Sure Step polished.

On the Aurora vs Woody Wax on non-skid, I've tried both extensively. I love Woody for its easy of use, and I hated Aurora. Last year I did the whole Aurora process indoors on my non-skid and I can tell you, if done right, it is SOOOO much longer lasting. I did it last year and I'm still able to wipe off things from my deck. (spider crap from the indoor building wiped off with some water and a cloth a few weeks ago - that doesn't happen on uncoated gelcoat).

A supplier gave me a tip with the Aurora sure step. After the cleaning, put it on with a cloth and then when it's dry, take a drill with cloth polishing wheels attached. He told me to get 5-6 of the wheels and attach them then use the end and bring it to a shine. It's awkward to work with but it's not hard and I can't say enough about how well it worked for me.

If you know how to properly use a buffer, you should never get swirl marks. I never do. Swirl marks are usually from using too much speed, doing too large of a section at once, or a really dirty pad. On my Makita buffer, I never go over 3.5 on the speed.

The results would be amazing using traditional compound, traditional swirl mark remover or finesse, and traditional wax over using just a cleaner/wax also........It's really hard to say without seeing the condition of your gelcoat....... And, quite honestly I know nothing about Seashield.....but try it out......

SeaShield did a test section on a boat I was engineering on and they did my car completely. The finish looked great and it lasted a very, very long time on my car. Way longer than you would ever get with traditional wax. And with polymer sealants like SeaShield you don't get as many black streaks after a rain. And the ones you do get come off much easier. As does day to day dirt and diesel soot.

I'm planning on doing a section of my boat with rejex and a section with sea shield. If it lasts any longer than Rejex it will be my go to stuff from now on. I've had great luck with Rejex for the last 3 years and haven't found anything even close to the long term protection it provided.

Hey, it is only 636 hours until offical spring.

It is really really hard to tell with a picture. But judging by the relfection in the picture, it doesn't appear you have a lot of oxidation. I would do a 1 step compounding with aquabuff 2000, which is slightly more abrasive or slightly more heavy duty than finesse.......If you buff it correctly, you shouldn't need to use swirl mark remover, although that doesn't hurt.