How to protect varnished teak cap-rails?

I was having a tower built at Pipewelders when I saw two 60ish hatteras sf's painted smurf blue from the rubrail up. They had painted everything, decks, house, windows, console, everything! I just ordered five gallons of this material to throw on a couple of boats we have in the yard, I'll let you know how hard of a time my guys have taking it off.

Hi.

Here in Queensland/ the UV is one of highest indexes in the world.
Sun gets everything.

I've had a few yachts over the yrs. Timber. and steel.

My last timber one was Jarrah Hull. Teak and Mahogany topsides.
When new (('65) she sparkled.
When I bought her. I let the teak fade. I like grey teak.
But everybody whinged. So I started oiling it with teak oil.
Once a month was fine.and no build up as such.
Works well if you living there.

Eventually I went to the "Everdure" System (British Paints)

Sand the timber.
Water the 2 pack epoxy down with same volume of thinners.
33% 33% 33%
and brush it onto timber. Just recoat till grains are full and no more saturation.
That seals timber forever.
While still tacky. Mix up some E'Dure 50\50.
Brush a coupla coats on top.

My last boat was still good last time I saw her. 5 or 6 yrs later.

It draws all the grain out and highlights it.Stabilises any Rotten\soft wood around and seals it from sun.

Get a bit and try it on some timber first if you not sure.
Just wash timber down. and get oils out of teak surface,
b4 you start.
Otherwise it'll not soak in fully.

If you have an older boat. with nice carved teak timbers that are getting a bit soft or rotten.
Get a Syringe and large needles. Plus a heat gun.

Dry timber out completely first.
Drill small dia holes all over the soft timber. and inject the 3 part mix fully. Several times.So ALL timber saturated.
The timber will then last forever and not need replacing.
Keep the dust from drilling. Mix it with some of the epoxy mix and cover drill holes.
Nothing will show.

I've done a fair bit of this with some of the old beautiful timber yachts with lotsa carving, and beautiful timber in them. That is irreplacable..
It completely stabilises the timber.

Not structurally. Obviously...
It will strengthen. But I wouldn't trust it.

You wouldn't believe some of the things we used to do in the old trawlers in the 50's to keep 'em afloat and back to the beach.
Every boat had bags of sawdust. plugs and big tarp's to drag underneath to seal bad leaks.

We were Coastal fishing in the 50's. Pots and set lines.
with some boats built in the late 1800's and early 1900's.

For my 13th Birthday. I was tossed over the side and dragged along for a while. In the North Sea in winter.. Skip said "that'll grow some hairs on your balls" (After I found 'em. About 3 days later")
Woke you up in a hurry.

When the boat is in "Storage" there is no reason to show off the beatiful teak/varnsish, unless the admirer wants to keep it up using his or her own elbow grease and checking account..

it all depends if ''storage'' means under or in a shed....

Not being used, but outdoors, no shed, no hangar, no nothing.

Hi David,

I am very curious how Tiki looks now. She was and is one of Feadship's finest built by the Van Lent yard. Is she finished now?

x2!

Best method I have found in FL. It is what all of the experienced yard professionals recommend.

Like Capt.J states, a lasting finish is achieved with sufficient mil. thickness, and this can vary with product. When finishes fail on teak, it is most often due to moisture intrusion. On the boats I am involved with, many times the finish has to be stripped off and started over with a long term system in mind. I have found that repairing the loose joints is the best place to start. Instead of sealers, I prefer penetrating epoxy x 3 on all the teak,all the same day. Before the last coat of P.E. has completely flashed off, apply the first coat of varnish, or finish of your choice.
Build until 8-10 coats. In 6 months or less, depending on location and care, light sand and add 2 -3 coats depending on how much you sand. By using the penetrating epoxy first you have impregnated the top cell structure of the teak and prevented moisture intrusion in the teak. By laying the first coat of varnish on the almost flashed off last coat of P.E., the varnish is bonded to the epoxy which is bonded to the teak. I haven't had to stip a boat again with this system.
When the finish is beginning to loose gloss, time for maintenance coats.
Ahh, the price of floating furniture!

2 coats of dago brown covered with 2 coats of awlclear....99% of the people who see it will not know the difference....

I agree with the multiple coats of varnish though I generally start with 8 coats. I am in FL too, I actually add 2 coats every quarter, min 3X a year. This seems to work well for me. The Awl Clear is new to me, I'll have to check it out.

Raising this older thread so I can get the most an best answers. Thanks.

We're having the rail and pulpit and some other pieces varnished on the Hat. Our girl recommends West Epoxy for durability. I hadn't even thought that way. This is not my area of expertise. What's your thoughts on that or recommendations. Keep in mind this is mainly a northern boat, and the work will be done now in N.C. (temps 40*-70*F, moderate humidity).

soon coming to the end of the 5 year rebuild We are using Epifanes traditional oil based varnish on all exterior teak surfaces and Im wondering what is the best way to protect the brightwork from the Mediterranean sun (and winter winter) , especially as there will be long periods when we wont be aboard to maintain the varnish on a daily basis.




I never took my Egg Harbor to the deep south, by I had a 10-12 coat base of varnish on all exterior teak. Sanded in the spring and then again in the later fall. and reapplied varnish. I never need to cover those woods because I used the boat often. So its the everyday rotation of the sun on a stationary boat that needs to be defended. I have seen a lot of rail covers etc.on boats that are stationary. I don't like the look but recognize the efficiency. For me, those covers would have to come off as soon as I'm on boat