How to protect varnished teak cap-rails?

Hi, this is one of the things we have to live with I am afraid..? If you start with about 12 coats of varnish and keep it clean and dry, you may get away with adding two coats in the spring and two in the fall.

But if you leave it for months, you may end up with spots that has to be sanded down and built up from scratch.

I have this same problem and would like to hear if anyone know some miracle cure..?

Varnish

Actually it is the wood that you really trying to protect, as the UV rays penetrate the varnish the top fibers of the teak break down and then the varnish loses adhesion with resulting cracking etc. So, the multiple coats of varnish are really the only answer unless you do make covers, my boat in Florida has the covers, I never take them off. My boat in Vancouver has no covers, way too much teak and the winter actually does more damage than the summer sun. You have my sympathy.

AMG,,, What varnish do you use.


david_japp ,,, I am in Tennessee and I have seen people make teak covers, it may not look the best but it will help


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On my teak brightwork I use Epifanes and it can flake off in places. My mahogany boat is with International Schooner and it seems to be "softer", I mean it sticks to the wood as it is flexing, instead of cracking.

Le Tonkinois

I've had good luck with Le Tonkinois, what I really like is that it doesn't require lots of prep work (sanding) and can be applied in a relatively wide range of conditions (although they do recommend rigging an awning if its really hot with direct sun). Google the name and you'll find it has quite a following...

Good Morning David,
WOW, a labour of love to be sure! In lieu of snaps for the cap rail, how about magnets, being that the hull is steel? Discs for example. They could be sewn into hem pockets although I'm not sure how you would deal with possible results of rusting (maybe the plastic coated ones).
Peter

One of the basic tenants of boating is "Wood means Work". There are only three ways around that: 1) Be rich enough to hire someone else to do the work. 2) Develop the mindset that it is a labor of love (if you have a lot of free time available). 3) Let it go and tell everyone that you like the natural aged look.
Personally I just love the look and feel of a nice piece of wood, and hate the look and expense of covers. After all, you have wood because you love to see it. Unfortunately neither 1, 2 or 3 work for me so fiberglass and stainless are my compromise.

Take a look at some of the "strippable protective coatings" used in other industries.

Aircraft Protection Peelable Coatings, UV Curable Liquid Masking Protective Film*For* Aviation Industry , Aircraft Protective Masking Film

There are several that might be exactly what you are looking for.

Very good recommendation. I had thought about that carpet cling stuff, but that could be a PITA to deal with and it's effectiveness would be questionable. This looks really good. Hope lots of varnished wood guys are seeing this. We could start seeing more wood out there and fewer canvas covers.

Mahogany

I have had good success with Bristol Finish on my mahogany rails on my Chris Craft in Alabama. Three years now with no real degradation but in a covered slip.

Why don't you topcoat with a good two part clear coat? They have exceptional UV's; can be brushed or sprayed, and are patchable and buffable for the inevitable repairs. The best way is to apply these products over well varnished and well cured varnish.

Very regular paste waxing will do wonders in extending the life of both varnish and clear coats.