Running Gear Antifoul...?

Sure you can. There is a yard right here in Ft. Lauderdale that has a whole warehouse full of TBT bottom paint.

As I recall, stocks in hand were "grandfathered" in. So it can be applied by those that still have it in stock.

Sharkskin Technology Inhibits Germ Growth

The Eureka Moment
Sharks are one of the few slow-moving marine creatures on which algae and other microorganisms don’t thrive. Researchers believed that sharkskin’s chemical makeup kept organisms from growing on it. But Anthony Brennan, a professor in the University of Florida’s Materials Science and Engineering Department, thought something else might be behind the skin’s ability to thwart microbes.


http://www.sharklet.com/wp-content/themes/sharklet/pdfs/archive/Florida_Trend-Sharkskin_Technology_Inhibits_Germ_Growth.pdf

More Lanolin Running Gear Testimonals

....from a Trawler forum

What should be used on "running gear" for best barnacle protection?
Leonard

You want the really stiff paste.
Apply to a thoroughly clean and dry running gear. Lasts ten months to a year
in PNW waters. Likely less in warm water. Cost: $4.
Richard

When I have my bottom painted, I coat the running gear with anhydrous lanolin. It really helps a lot.


Richard, I've just gotta meet you! We too use anhydrous lanolin, and I so seldom hear of anyone else using it that I've felt lonely for so long. We need to start an Anhydrous Lanolin club.

I do run into many folks who claim pretty much the same results that we get with anhydrous lanolin with waterproof teflon grease.

In the hottest weather here in Florida, even when we are farther south, we seem to get around 4+ months without needing to scrape our prop, and thereafter, we need to start scraping it more and more frequently.

Eventually, when I get tired of scraping it, I remove the prop, clean it, reapply the anhydrous lanolin and reinstall it and we're good for another 4+ months.

When I try bottom paint, I seem to seldom get more than this and often less; plus anhydrous lanolin is much simpler to use and kinder on my hands.

This is one reason that I made that inexpensive prop puller that was mentioned a few months ago... even if I couldn't pull the prop myself, having the puller means I could probably find someone around who would be willing to do it for me, since the puller is readily available.

As far as the more costly approaches, for our circumstances, the cost/benefits ratio don't make sense to me, though I hear that if you're willing to spend the money and the time, you can go longer without having to scrape the prop.


Oops, it must have been a typo, doubtful that I'd make a mistake... although don't discount that explanation either.

We usually get 8+ months with anhydrous lanolin, not the 4+ that I stated in my post, though for those who are analytical will realize that that statement isn't really wrong either.

This last year, we got 8 months, scraped 6 weeks later, then again 4 weeks later. Temperatures were dropping and didn't want to get in the water after Nov. 30, so mid-Nov. pulled the prop and recoated it.

Cost for 1 lb of anhydrous lanolin, from a pharmacy, $15-$20, at least it was 5 years ago. 1 lb will last years, but less so for me, since I use it for so much more... grease shackle threads and turnbuckle threads, slather it on spliced eyes before they are served, rub on my hands to soften them up, rub it on the tops of our lifeline stanchions to keep the water out of the end-grain of the wood posts, rub it on tools before I store them away when we are goin' a cruisin' or just to pull it out and smell it, since it smells nifty.

If your hair is recalcitrant, wouldn't be surprised if it could be used to tame it some or at least to form it into some interesting shapes.


If you're willing to pay the freight, PropSpeed works. If you apply it
properly, and keep the prop out of the bottom, it will last, I got over
2 years on one application. The surface must be prepared and the coating
applied exactly as recommended, if not, you'll have disappointing
results. The better the conditions, the longer the application will
last, e.g. dry, no wind, scrupulously clean surface. I made the mistake
of coating in gusty conditions, the prop was covered in grit. The worst
wore off in use, but the surface wasn't as smooth as prior times. I use
it on the main prop and thruster blades. The thruster blades are
composite material, but the coating held up perfectly. No barnacles.
Toward the end, a few attached, but came off easily.

Costs about $250 for application, so it's not cheap.
as always.


I've looked into prop speed but found it too expensive.
I've tried the major marine brand "underwater metal kits", but wasn't
pleased with results for the cost/effort to apply.
I found the best performance (Chesapeake bay) to be spray zinc - either
Pettit ($20/spray can) or Rustoleum cold galvanize ($5/can) - either worked
the same, required 3 cans for twin running gear and lasted a season. But
protect your lungs!

I tried something new the last time I bottom painted. I looked at
propspeed but decided the cost and somewhat tricky application was not
worth it to me. What I have noticed in the past is not that anti foulant
doesn't seem to work on running gear, but that it doesn't stay on the
gear for any length of time, I thought maybe if could "seal" the metals
in some way I could get the anti foulant to stay on and do its job. What
I tried was to paint the gear (including aluminum trim tabs) with a
product called POR 15 (http://www.por15.com/POR-15/productinfo/1GB/) and
then with anti foulant, I used the same ablative paint that went on the
rest of the hull, but I think a hard paint might be a better choice.
After the first summer I had virtually no barnacles an the gear itself,
however the trim tabs were covered in barnacles, so something failed there.
The last time I was under the boat was in September of 2010 and there
were still not too many barnacles on any of the gear, though the rudders
seemed a little worse than the wheels and of course the trim tabs were a
complete mess. I will haul this spring and am very interested in seeing
how much of the POR 15 is still in place, I will recoat with it if I
think its needed and try a hard paint this time, probably Trinidad as I
had good results with it on my last boat.


I have done a similar trick - Polished the wheel really well with angle
grinder and 120 grit, then put on 2 coats of unthickened epoxy (System
Three) followed by my regular bottom paint. This gave me two seasons in
the PNW. Probably not as severe a test as the south, but a satisfactory
result, I think, for up here.

...more from that trawler forum:

We put anhydrous lanolin of our props last summer, based of testimonials
from this list. We were in New England waters, on a mooring for 6 weeks.
After six week of no cruising, we headed out of the harbor to find a
terrible vibration above 1200 rpm. Back into the harbor, diving tank on, 45
minutes later after a lot of scraping, both props were clear of growth. I
won't be usind this again. YMMV, of course.

.........................................

I second the idea of using the inexpensive high zinc "cold galvanize" paint
( $5 or so). I did this for the 09 season (launched early May) in the
Chesapeake. I polished the prop with a angle grinder/flap wheel and applied
about four coats. We ran about 150 hours that summer and on haul out in late
Oct found the prop still well painted, a few pea sized barnacles and some
low profile (1/8") trail like ribbons. As a side benefit my shaft zinc just
ahead of the prop was almost pristine. In 2010 I procrastinated and failed
to get a can of the zinc paint and launched with a bare prop. I had the prop
cleaned twice during the summer do to rpm drop and found the prop with many
sizable barnacles on haul out in Nov. The zinc was about gone.

Would seem to me you could use both the zinc paint and lanolin, Belt and
suspenders. I will try that this season.

With a boat that cruises under 20 knots, I like the Interlux Trilux paint. Applied properly I have seen no barnacle growth for 14 months in South Florida. Over 20 knots I stick to prop speed with good results.

However, if you have any electrolysis issue it will burn either paint off of the running gear in no time at all.

Sharklet on PBS, 9 Feb

Set your DVR! This Wednesday, February 9, Sharklet will be making big news!!

We're excited to be featured on the world-renowned program PBS NOVA as part of a special series called Making Stuff. Hosted by New York Times technology reporter Davide Pogue, Sharklet will be featured among other innovative technologies that are 'Making Stuff: Smarter.' Watch a preview on YouTube!
Here's what PBS says about Making Stuff: Smarter
"Making Stuff: Smarter" looks at materials that respond to their environments and even learn, such as an airplane wing that changes shape as it flies. Scientists are turning to nature in developing such "smart" stuff. Sharkskin, for instance, has inspired a substance that, when applied in hospitals, could eliminate antibiotic-resistant bacteria. David Pogue visits a scientist who has even created a material that can render objects invisible. "Smarter" concludes with a vision of the ultimate in "life-like" stuff: programmable matter that could create a duplicate of a human being.

We hope you'll tune in to see the program. Visit the PBS website and enter your local ZIP code to view your local listings.

I was trying to look up data on 'Sea Slide' and was experiencing a few problems finding web pages on it??

...but I did run across a few others of interest:
http://www.portoflosangeles.org/pdf/Seagrant_Nontoxic_AntifoulingII.pdf

Sani Tred rubberized product

I posted this interesting product over on another subject thread as this one was more oriented to running gear

http://www.yachtforums.com/forums/121025-post8.html