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Duffy Electric boats....?

Discussion in 'Tenders & Dinghies' started by Norseman, Sep 18, 2013.

  1. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Naw, we free wheel at the bar, fee wheel when were out of fuel, We free wheel getting towed and we free wheel on I95.
    But we never know anything about free wheeling & sailing with the transmission in neutral.
    Not a part of any fishing story either.
  2. Norseman

    Norseman Senior Member

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    Aye Mate, some if not all tranny manufactors recommend reverse gear when sailing and with the engine off. Should you forget, there is a steady and annoying rumble from the shaft and cutless bearing to remind you as the prop is spinning away trying to match the boat speed.
    (Unless you happen to be on a center-cockpit boat, it will probably mask your mistake and you won't hear a thing:)
  3. robbie59

    robbie59 New Member

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    Finally got new batteries and ran the Duffy for 2 hours this past weekend. No problems so far. I am having trouble figuring out a way to charge (6) 6v batteries with a 3 bank 12v charger. My set up is 2 banks of 3 batteries making 2 banks of 18v. Each bank is wired in series.

    Now its all about getting some hardware fixed. My surrey top is tweaked pretty bad. Some of the pole mounts are not correct or the right angle/degree. Anyone know where I would go about finding these pieces of hardware?

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
  4. robbie59

    robbie59 New Member

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    Can somebody tell me what this is and why I need it?[​IMG]
  5. Bill106

    Bill106 Senior Member

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    A lesson in how NOT to wire a boat?

    Looks like an isolation diode setup but has several things wrong.
    1. Using aluminum as a conducting material (leads going to aluminum angle should use a large ring terminal and be connected to the diode post itself not the angle)
    2. Crimped ring in foreground not heat shrinked and loose wire strand out of connector.
    3. Connection on wire labeled "10" very sloppily taped and of dubious method (ie. bolt?)

    Those style diodes have a soldered-only connection method on that end, a better method would be soldering the main wire and heat shrinking it without a secondary connection. With any soldered connection, proper support very close to the connection is also recommended to keep vibration from cracking the harder solder joint.

    That automotive fuse below also should be in a waterproof or at least splash resistant boot, it will last much longer that way.
  6. robbie59

    robbie59 New Member

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    Thanks for the info. I bought the boat like this. Although it seems to run fine, I want to correct the wiring and make it safe. Any idea what diodes I need to buy to upgrade this mess?
  7. Bill106

    Bill106 Senior Member

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    That would be hard to do without a lot more info; size, amperage capacity, voltage, type etc.. There are literally thousands of diodes available on the market, picking out the most suitable would depend on what function they're being used for. Most marine applications using larger ones like that are for charging circuits (from alternators or generators) to multiple battery banks and the diodes are used to isolate the banks while charging. More "modern" systems use ACR's (Automatic Charging Relays) but I doubt your Duffy is set up with that.
  8. robbie59

    robbie59 New Member

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    Well to start with, I have:
    (6) 6v batteries
    36 volt GE motor
    Salzer rotary switch (low-high forward reverse)

    I use a triple bank marine charger which connects straight to the batteries.

    So my question is, Do I even need the diodes at all?
  9. todd kromer

    todd kromer New Member

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    It was the prop ! I rounded the edges where before I had filed them more to a point. Put her back in and 90% of the noise , that sound just like belt squael, is GONE. It's getting dam near perfect!
  10. Bill106

    Bill106 Senior Member

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    Without a schematic of the installation I really can't say unfortunately.
  11. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Is there a factory plan or schematic?
    I can guess that there was a floating negative battery charger involved at one time. They usually did not work.
    There are 36Vdc chargers out there. Because of the small demand they can be expensive.
    However, remote solar users, may offer a 36Vdc charger (if you search the web) that may not hurt so much $..

    We do understand things over 24Vdc. I am a 32 Vdc fan. Patience and the web can help.
    Keep typing and searching. Something will pop up. Usually in an old YF thread.
  12. Norseman

    Norseman Senior Member

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    The Duffy factory will fax or email electric schematics on request, no charge.
  13. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    Aren't there lots of 36 volt battery chargers for golf carts? Not exactly Marine. but a battery charger none-the-less
  14. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Remembered something this morning.
    Bass fishermen are using 24 and now 36v trolling motors. I did find some examples on the web.
    Some listed as "marine" chargers. Some are expensive, some not so.
  15. Norseman

    Norseman Senior Member

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    I had to replace the 48 charger charger on my Duffy. Ended up ordering from the same folks who supplied Duffy due to the integration of controller, wire harness, fans, warning lights, etc.
    It was pricey at $500, but a proper 3 stage charger for deep cycle batteries.
    Also connected a surge protector to the charger.
    (Last year a power surge killed the charger and the controller:confused:)
  16. jimg

    jimg New Member

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    I need some help with my 1990, 20 ft. Duffy. While running some new battery cables, there was a short across a tool after which the boat would only go full speed in forward or reverse. Tried a new "black box". No help. Suspect the console mounted thingy with the handle (throttle?). Where to get a replacement? How to test? Thoughts?
  17. Norseman

    Norseman Senior Member

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    Hi Jim.
    I would call the Duffy factory in California.
    Make sure you have the HIN handy.
    That being said, I found a replacement throttle on Amazon, not the handle, just the small "electrical" part of it. It was $10 or $11, but different from what you have.
  18. jimg

    jimg New Member

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    That was quick!! Thanks. I am assuming that that since the switch part, forward and reverse, is working properly, it is a rheostat issue. I saw your earlier post about the rheostat part. What is the HIN?
  19. jimg

    jimg New Member

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    Some further information. Here are some photos:

    the boat

    P1010116.jpg

    the handle
    P1010118.JPG

    the black box
    P1010119.JPG

    the switch

    Switch.jpg

    Am I correct in assuming that the rheostat in the switch part is 12v and that the 12v "signal" is sent to the black box and converted to 36v for the motor?
    Given that the switch does forward and reverse functions and there is no speed control, does it seem likely that the problem is in the switch apparatus or should I also suspect the controller (black box)?

    Attached Files:

  20. Norseman

    Norseman Senior Member

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    Hull Idenification number.
    As in VIN on cars.

    As for you question on the throttle?
    Not sure, I only know my boat (in details now)
    Again, call Duffy, they are quite helpful even if you are out of warranty and/or the 2nd or 6th owner,